Vitello tonnato, also known as vitel tonné, is one of the most beloved appetizers in traditional Piedmontese cuisine. It’s a dish built on a relatively unusual pairing of fish and meat, yet its delicious flavor has stood the test of centuries and won over palates worldwide.
Today, vitello tonnato is among the most popular Piedmontese starters: when it’s enjoyed with the right glass of wine, it becomes practically irresistible.
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Vitello Tonnato: History and Curiosities Behind a Piedmont Classic
Vitello tonnato is an old recipe, widespread in Piedmont as early as the 1700s, though in a different form than the one we know today. In its earliest versions, there was no tuna at all.
So where does the name come from?
The most widely accepted theory is that tonnato derives from the Piedmontese word tannè, meaning “tanned” or “dressed,” referring to the meat being seasoned with a sauce.
Originally, then, it was a veal dish served with a sauce containing capers and anchovies.
Tuna officially joined the ingredient list at the end of the 19th century: writer and gastronome Pellegrino Artusi published the recipe in his Scienza in cucina e l’arte di mangiar bene, adding tuna—perhaps influenced by the dish’s name.
Vitello Tonnato: Ingredients and Preparation
Vitello tonnato is perfect for any occasion, casual or formal, and it’s very simple to prepare.
Here is the recipe, passed down through generations in the Bava family.
Ingredients
- 800 g magatello (veal eye of round)
- 1 carrot
- 2 celery stalks
- 1 onion
- 500 ml white wine
- 1,5 l water
- salt, to taste
- whole black pepper, to taste
For the tuna sauce
- 4 eggs
- 200 g tuna in oil
- 1 tbsp capers
- 8 anchovy fillets in oil
- salt, to taste
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Preparation
Trim the veal, removing excess fat, and tie it with kitchen twine so it holds its shape during cooking.
Warm 3/4 tablespoons of oil in a casserole. When hot, add the veal and brown it well on all sides to “seal” the meat.
Once browned, pour off any excess oil, add a good glass of white wine and a handful of chopped herbs, then let the wine evaporate.
When the wine has reduced, add enough water to come halfway up the meat. Season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook over a lively flame for 45–60 minutes (time varies by size), checking now and then. The meat should be cooked but still slightly pink inside.
Let cool completely.
For the sauce:
Boil the eggs in salted water for 7–8 minutes, so the yolks are just set but still a little soft.
Once cooled and peeled, place the eggs in a bowl. Add well-drained anchovies and tuna, plus desalted capers. Using an immersion blender, process everything to a creamy—but not overly smooth—consistency; you should still feel a bit of texture.
If the sauce is too thick, loosen it with a little oil, water, or some of the veal cooking juices. Taste and adjust salt.
Refrigerate to rest.
To serve:
Slice the veal with a very sharp knife or a slicer. The slices should be reasonably thin, but not wafer-thin.
Arrange the slices on a serving platter and top each one with a spoonful of sauce—don’t overdo it; you want the right balance between meat and sauce. Garnish with a few capers and serve.
The Perfect Pairing: Vitello Tonnato & Barbera d’Asti DOCG “Libera”
Alongside the flavors of vitello tonnato, Barbera d’Asti DOCG “Libera” finds its ideal place at the table. Lively and beautifully balanced, it’s the perfect counterpoint to the dish’s richness and aromatic intensity.
Libera shows an intense ruby red color and a fragrant nose with notes of wild plum, black cherry preserve, and pepper.
On the palate it’s dry yet enveloping, with sweet red-fruit tones; moderate in alcohol, it offers a surprisingly soft mouthfeel thanks to its contained acidity.
The Pianoalto estate, where the grapes for this wine are grown, is home to magnificent Barbera vineyards gathered around the farmhouse on the hill, overlooking the village of Agliano and its valley of thermal springs.
All the wines produced on this estate embody the character of the classic Monferrato Astigiano zone, Agliano lies within the area of Nizza.
DISCOVER ALL THE DETAILS ABOUT LIBERA
For us, exploring a region’s traditional recipes—and the family variations passed down through generations, is a way to understand the territory itself: its identity, and the people who have shaped it over time.
The bond between the Bava family and the kitchen has always been strong: from the first bread oven, to the inn at the family hotel, to the restaurant that remained open until the 1970s, and up to today’s collaborations with chefs from around the world, gastronomy has always been center stage.
To dive deeper into this connection and the flavors of Piedmont, download the ebook “Stories of Food & Wine”, a recipe collection with 4 traditional dishes handed down in the Bava family and 4 local wines that bring out their best.